Equipment Matters by Chris Storey
As the season grinds to a start, it is a good idea to check your equipment over, prior to any serious diving. Your regulators might have been serviced within the last 12 months, but they can still develop an irritating fault, at the most inopportune moment!
Regulators.
Of course, the last time you used your regulators, you washed them out in fresh water afterwards, right? Some folks take this to an extreme, but a thorough rinse of the second and first stages is all that’s required. Be careful not to get water into the first stage. It is not a good idea to fully submerge the 1st stage, even with a dust cap fitted, as these often leak. Do not purge the 2nd stage whilst submerged, as this can allow water into the valve. Check the hoses for cracking, especially where they curve away from the 1st stage.
It is a good idea, if you can’t get to a pool, to submerge the regulators whilst charged and assembled on a cylinder. Check for leaks from all connections, and around the 1st stage. Where a leak is evident, change the relevant o-ring and test again. Remember there are o-rings at either end of each medium pressure hose. When you change an o-ring, make sure you discard the old o-ring. It is a bad idea to keep used o-rings “as a spare”. They will fail, and when they do, you will wish you had replaced it with a new one, or had it serviced!
If you have an Apeks, or similar “swivel turret” 1st stage, look for leaks at the swivel. Whilst submerged, rotate the turret. There should be no leaks at all. If there are leaks from around the retaining bolt, or from elsewhere on the turret, it is time for a service. DO NOT try tightening the bolt, as this will not stop the leak, and will just damage the regulator.
Similarly air bubbling from a Poseidon 1st stage is usually an indication of IP creep. That’s service time to you!
If you happen to own a Sherwood regulator then it is quite normal for these to pass air from the 1st stage, as that is part of the cold water, anti-freeze, system.
High Pressure Hose
The high pressure hose should also be checked for cracking, and, whilst submerged, flexed along it’s length. If very small bubbles can be seen coming from small holes at regular intervals, it’s time to buy a new hose. Whilst the hose is submerged, check the pressure gauge by turning it on it’s swivel. The pressure gauge is attached to the hose with a swivel connector. This is a small tube, sometimes with a flange halfway along it’s length. It is this that seals the connection, when the threaded end of the hose is attached. Two very small o-rings are located at either end of the swivel. These can break down, causing leaks, and seizing of the swivel. If this is causing a problem, it is often simpler to replace the whole swivel, rather than source the o-rings and try and clean it up, as the swivel itself can often wear.
Inflators
Another area of concern, often not given enough attention, is the BC inflator. Check that the BC inflates properly, and that it stays inflated, with the inflator hose connected. It is a good idea to leave a BC inflated over night. It shouldn’t lose any pressure. Again, submerge the inflator in water, and operate, to check for leaks. The inflator hose connection, consists of a Schrader valve and a “bastard” o-ring. This refers to the difficulty of replacing this last item! The o-ring is recessed, and is not readily visible. If this fails, a stream of bubbles will be seen from the connector when it is connected. The inflator itself should still operate correctly. Disconnection of the hose should see the leak stop. If the disconnected hose leaks, this indicates a faulty Schrader valve. These need replacing with a proprietary tool.
The Inflator itself should also be checked for both leaks, and correct operation. Does the button depress easily? Is the airflow sufficient to inflate the BC in a reasonable time (for example when at the surface)? Does the airflow shut off, immediately the button is released? Any failure in these areas warrants further investigation. If you are not confident to strip an inflator down yourself, get it serviced!
Inflators come in many shapes and sizes, however they are all fairly similar in operation. There are two main types, piston, and Schrader valves. The Schrader valve is simple in operation, usually with the button acting directly on the end of the valve. The Schrader valve itself is cheap and easy to replace. The piston valve is probably more common, and consists of a chrome shaft attached to the button. This is usually released by a nut and washer at the opposing end to the button, often hidden by a plastic fitting. Once the shaft is withdrawn, it will usually have 2 o-rings fitted, along with a spring. The chrome or stainless steel shaft should be clean and free of pitting. Replace both o-rings and grease the whole unit with silicon. Make sure the unit operates correctly when reassembled, before use.
Bubble check
It is good practice to do a bubble check as part of your buddy check procedures, especially when diving with a CCR (closed circuit rebreather).
As you descend in your buddy pair, stop at about 6m, and rotate to allow your buddy to observe all the way round your kit, checking for bubbles. Note that on an AP Inspiration, there should be no bubbles at all!
I carry a stainless steel mirror in my pocket to enable me to check my own kit for leaks. These are available form most camping shops for a couple of quid.
I hope this has been a useful article, and may “save you a dive”, if nothing else!
Safe Diving
Chris
Regulators.
Of course, the last time you used your regulators, you washed them out in fresh water afterwards, right? Some folks take this to an extreme, but a thorough rinse of the second and first stages is all that’s required. Be careful not to get water into the first stage. It is not a good idea to fully submerge the 1st stage, even with a dust cap fitted, as these often leak. Do not purge the 2nd stage whilst submerged, as this can allow water into the valve. Check the hoses for cracking, especially where they curve away from the 1st stage.
It is a good idea, if you can’t get to a pool, to submerge the regulators whilst charged and assembled on a cylinder. Check for leaks from all connections, and around the 1st stage. Where a leak is evident, change the relevant o-ring and test again. Remember there are o-rings at either end of each medium pressure hose. When you change an o-ring, make sure you discard the old o-ring. It is a bad idea to keep used o-rings “as a spare”. They will fail, and when they do, you will wish you had replaced it with a new one, or had it serviced!
If you have an Apeks, or similar “swivel turret” 1st stage, look for leaks at the swivel. Whilst submerged, rotate the turret. There should be no leaks at all. If there are leaks from around the retaining bolt, or from elsewhere on the turret, it is time for a service. DO NOT try tightening the bolt, as this will not stop the leak, and will just damage the regulator.
Similarly air bubbling from a Poseidon 1st stage is usually an indication of IP creep. That’s service time to you!
If you happen to own a Sherwood regulator then it is quite normal for these to pass air from the 1st stage, as that is part of the cold water, anti-freeze, system.
High Pressure Hose
The high pressure hose should also be checked for cracking, and, whilst submerged, flexed along it’s length. If very small bubbles can be seen coming from small holes at regular intervals, it’s time to buy a new hose. Whilst the hose is submerged, check the pressure gauge by turning it on it’s swivel. The pressure gauge is attached to the hose with a swivel connector. This is a small tube, sometimes with a flange halfway along it’s length. It is this that seals the connection, when the threaded end of the hose is attached. Two very small o-rings are located at either end of the swivel. These can break down, causing leaks, and seizing of the swivel. If this is causing a problem, it is often simpler to replace the whole swivel, rather than source the o-rings and try and clean it up, as the swivel itself can often wear.
Inflators
Another area of concern, often not given enough attention, is the BC inflator. Check that the BC inflates properly, and that it stays inflated, with the inflator hose connected. It is a good idea to leave a BC inflated over night. It shouldn’t lose any pressure. Again, submerge the inflator in water, and operate, to check for leaks. The inflator hose connection, consists of a Schrader valve and a “bastard” o-ring. This refers to the difficulty of replacing this last item! The o-ring is recessed, and is not readily visible. If this fails, a stream of bubbles will be seen from the connector when it is connected. The inflator itself should still operate correctly. Disconnection of the hose should see the leak stop. If the disconnected hose leaks, this indicates a faulty Schrader valve. These need replacing with a proprietary tool.
The Inflator itself should also be checked for both leaks, and correct operation. Does the button depress easily? Is the airflow sufficient to inflate the BC in a reasonable time (for example when at the surface)? Does the airflow shut off, immediately the button is released? Any failure in these areas warrants further investigation. If you are not confident to strip an inflator down yourself, get it serviced!
Inflators come in many shapes and sizes, however they are all fairly similar in operation. There are two main types, piston, and Schrader valves. The Schrader valve is simple in operation, usually with the button acting directly on the end of the valve. The Schrader valve itself is cheap and easy to replace. The piston valve is probably more common, and consists of a chrome shaft attached to the button. This is usually released by a nut and washer at the opposing end to the button, often hidden by a plastic fitting. Once the shaft is withdrawn, it will usually have 2 o-rings fitted, along with a spring. The chrome or stainless steel shaft should be clean and free of pitting. Replace both o-rings and grease the whole unit with silicon. Make sure the unit operates correctly when reassembled, before use.
Bubble check
It is good practice to do a bubble check as part of your buddy check procedures, especially when diving with a CCR (closed circuit rebreather).
As you descend in your buddy pair, stop at about 6m, and rotate to allow your buddy to observe all the way round your kit, checking for bubbles. Note that on an AP Inspiration, there should be no bubbles at all!
I carry a stainless steel mirror in my pocket to enable me to check my own kit for leaks. These are available form most camping shops for a couple of quid.
I hope this has been a useful article, and may “save you a dive”, if nothing else!
Safe Diving
Chris